Glossary

Viscosity control agent

Also called atopic eczema. Eczema is said to be a “constitutional” disorder, because it is the expression of an underlying hereditary allergic predisposition. Eczema appears in infants on the cheeks and in the folds of the elbows knees; the skin oozes, forms scabs and feels very itchy, with a risk of secondary infection. Atopic dermatitis is thus an allergic condition with a very severe reaction that damages the skin and mucous membranes.

Emulsion stabilizer and odor masking agent

INCI name: Beta-Sitosterol

Agent for maintaining the water content of a cosmetic product or of skin

Anti-oxidant (inhibits oxygen-facilitated reactions, thus avoiding oxidation and rancidity)

INCI name: BHT

Solvent

Formula thickening agent

Film-forming agent, skin care substance

Dry oil. Softens and smooths.

Boosts the action of preservatives

Skin care agent: maintains the skin in good condition

Cedar Bark Oil is energizing and revitalizing.

INCI name: Citrus Medica Vulgaris Peel Oil

Emulsifying agent (promotes mixing between two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil)

Emulsifying agent (promotes mixing between two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil)

Emulsifying agent (promotes mixing between two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil)

Emulsion Stabilizer

See “Preservatives”

Astringent. Also enables a formula’s pH to be adjusted

INCI name: Citric Acid

Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a mild surfactant (or cleansing agent) derived from coconut oil. It is widely used for its foaming properties in cosmetic products such as liquid soaps, shampoos, bath and shower products, etc. It is also an Ecocert/Cosmebio certified organic product.

Coco-Betaine is a mild surfactant (or cleansing agent) derived from coconut oil. It is widely used for its foaming properties in cosmetic products such as liquid soaps, shampoos, bath and shower products, etc.

Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)

Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)

Encapsulating agent for prolonged release of active agents

See “Silicones”

Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)

<span>Emulsifying agent (agent that promotes mixing of two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil) </span>.

INCI name: <span>Palm Kernel Acid</span>

Absorbent, matifying agent.

INCI name: Diatomaceous Earth

Emollient agent (softens and smooths the skin)

See “Silicones”

Bacteriostatic agent

Boosts the action of preservatives. Solvent

Disodium EDTA is a sequestering agent, meaning it has the capacity to capture and retain metal ions such as Ca2+ (calcium) and Mg2+ (magnesium). It is used in a variety of cosmetic products: deodorants, bath and shower products, shampoos, face and body creams, etc. It helps maintain the stability of the formula and protect it from oxidation (thus preventing fats contained in the formulas from turning rancid).

Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)

See “Preservatives”

An excipient is a carrier of active ingredient(s). Its composition is such that it modulates the skin’s absorption of the active ingredient. Some excipients facilitate an entirely superficial action, while others allow active ingredients to pass through the stratum corneum or conduct them to the dermis.

Agent that helps with spraying of the formula

INCI name: Butane

Emulsion stabilizer

Skin care agent: maintains the skin in good condition

Emollient agent (softens and smooths the skin)

Emulsifying agent (promotes mixing between two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil)

Opacifying agent (reduces transparency)

Skin care agent: maintains the skin in good condition

Emulsion stabilizing agent

Active ingredient with strong anti-itching and soothing properties, inspired by the functional molecules of oats

Encapsulating agent for prolonged release of active agents

See “Preservatives”

Propellant

Moisturizing active ingredient

INCI name: Jojoba Esters

pH regulating agent

INCI name: Lactic Acid

This substance forms a moisturizing film. It has soothing, nourishing and protective properties for the skin

Emollient agent (softens and smooths the skin). Very good moisturizer

Boosts the action of preservatives.

INCI name: Levulinic Acid

Absorbent powder.

Skin care agent: maintains the skin in good condition

See “Sulfated Surfactants”

Moisturizing agent

Viscosity control agent

Moisturizer and skin care agent: maintains the skin in good condition

Refreshing (immediate fresh effect).

Refreshing (immediate fresh effect).

Mineral oils are widely used in cosmetics for their useful properties: they help products spread more easily and are well tolerated even by sensitive skin.  The occlusive nature of mineral oils makes them perfect for dry skin because they form a film that prevents dehydration. They should, however, be avoided in the case of oily or acne-prone skin that could develop pimples.

Moisturizing and soothing agent

Emollient agent (softens and smooths the skin).

<span>Emollient agent (softens and smooths the skin)</span>

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>

<span>Viscosity control agent, emulsion stabilizer</span>.

<span>Moisturizer>/span>

<span>Promotes miscibility of ingredients, softens</span>

Acronym for PolyEthylene Glycol, PEG refers to a large family of compounds comprising polymers of ethylene glycol and its derivatives.  They are widely used in cosmetics as surfactants (= cleansing agents, foaming agents), emulsifiers and Surgras agents. At Rogé Cavaillès, we use only very high quality, very pure PEGs in order to minimize the risk of impurities being present.

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>See the “PEGs”</span>

<span>See “Silicones”</span>

<span>Chelating agent, reacts and forms complexes with metal ions that could affect the stability and/or appearance of cosmetic products</span>.

<span>Humectant, maintains the water content of a cosmetic in its packaging and on the skin. Solubilizing agent.</span>

pH (potential of hydrogen) corresponds to the degree of acidity or alkalinity. The pH determines the quantity of hydrogen ions present on a scale of 1 to 14. The pH is neutral with a value of 7. The pH is acid with a value from 1 to 7 and alkaline or basic from 7 to 14. The pH of skin is 6.5, for mucous membranes it is 5.5.

<span>Antibacterial agent and preservative.</span>

<span>Agent that helps maintain the water content of a cosmetic product or skin</span>.

<span>Emulsifying agent (agent that promotes mixing of two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil) </span>.

<span>Solubilizing agent</span>.

<span>Solubilizing agent</span>.

<span>Film-forming agent</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Skin care agent: Maintains the skin in good condition</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>See “Preservatives”</span>

<span>Emollient agent (softens and smooths the skin)</span>.

<span>Humectant agent</span>.

<div>Preservatives are often demonized by the media, who forget that they ensure the longevity and safety of cosmetic products by preventing microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, etc.) from growing in the products. At Rogé Cavaillès we tailor our use of preservatives to the product’s formula and intended purpose, so as to guarantee safe use by consumers.  In our formulas, preservatives are always below the maximum legal concentration of 0.5%.
<div>Phenoxyethanol
Widely used in cosmetics, phenoxyethanol is a very effective preservative. In Europe, it is authorized as a preservative in cosmetics, in a maximum concentration of 1%.
<div>DMDM Hydantoin:
DMDM hydantoin is an extremely effective preservative, authorized in Europe in cosmetics in a maximum concentration of 0.6%.  At Rogé Cavaillès, we use DMDMD Hydantoin only in very rare cases where there are no alternatives, and then only in very low concentrations.
<div>Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Benzoate is a derivative of benzoic acid. It has a powerful antimicrobial action, enabling it to effectively combat bacteria, yeasts and fungi. This preservative, even though synthetic, is accepted in organic cosmetics that meet the Ecocert standard.

<span>Propellant gas </span>

<span>Solvent and humectant</span>.

<span>Antibacterial and soothing agent</span>.

<span>Viscosity control agent</span>.

<span>Solvent and humectant</span>.

<span>Skin care agent: Maintains the skin in good condition</span>.

Silicones are a family of substances, including dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane, among others. They are used in cosmetic products for various purposes: they make creams feel more pleasant and make them easier to spread, with a non-greasy feel. They are also used in spray deodorants with antiperspirants, as a solvent to dilute the formula’s ingredients.  Silicones do not penetrate the skin barrier: some silicones remain on the surface of the skin, while others evaporate on contact with the skin.

A soap is a fatty acid salt resulting from the action of a strong base (soda or potash) on a fatty substance (triglycerides). Soaps are pastes with varying degrees of solidity. The fats used are a mixture of animal (tallow) or plant-based (olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, etc.).

A soap is a fatty acid salt produced from the reaction of a strong base (soda or potassium hydroxide) with a fat (triglycerides).
Soaps are pastes which can vary in their degree of solidity. The fats used are a mix of animal fat (tallow) or vegetable fat (palm, oil palm, olive oil etc.).

<span>See “Preservatives”</span>

<span>Viscosity control agent</span>.

<span>pH regulator</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Sodium Gluconate is a sequestering agent, i.e. capable of capturing and retaining metal ions such as Ca2+ (calcium) and Mg2+ (magnesium). It is used in a variety of cosmetic products: deodorants, bath and shower products, shampoos, face and body creams, etc. It helps maintain the stability of the formula and protect it from oxidation (thus preventing fats contained in the formulas from turning rancid). </span>

<span>pH regulator</span>.

See “Sulfated Surfactant”.

INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Agent that boosts the action of preservatives.</span>

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>Moisturizer</span>.

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

<span>See “Sulfated surfactant”</span>

<span>See “Preservatives”</span>

<span>Emulsifying agent (agent that promotes mixing of two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil) </span>.

Humectant, maintains the water content of a cosmetic in its packaging and on the skin

INCI name: <span>Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate</span>

<span>Moisturizer</span>.

<span>Skin care agent: Maintains the skin in good condition</span>.

Viscosity control agent.

<span>Emulsifying agent (agent that promotes mixing of two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil) </span>.

<span>Emulsifying agent (agent that promotes mixing of two immiscible liquids, e.g. water and oil) </span>.

<span>Emulsion stabilizing agent</span>.

<span>Opacifying agent (reduces transparency)</span>.

The sulfated surfactants are: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and Magnesium Laureth Sulfate (MLES).
Sulfated surfactants are cleansing agents widely used in cosmetic products for their cleansing and foaming properties.  They have the property of suspending dirt that is not readily water-soluble, thus allowing its removal.
SLES and SLS have been in use for many years. Too-frequent use of products containing SLES or SLS may cause irritation. Therefore, we use a combination of different surfactants in the Rogé Cavaillès formulas and add ingredients that reduce their irritant potential (fattening agents, oils, etc.), for more comfortable use.

Sunflower seed wax surrounds the sunflower’s seeds. It is used as a thickening agent in emulsions and balms and also has soothing properties.

INCI name: <Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax</span>

A molecule with a dual polarity. The head has a great affinity for water and the tail has a great affinity for oil. The surfactant family is very varied. Surfactants are mainly used as cleansing agents.

Molecule with double polarity. The “head” has a great affinity for water and the tail has a great affinity for oil. The surfactant family is a very varied family. Surfactants are mainly used as cleansing agents.

Surgras soaps are enriched with surgras agents like lanolin and sweet almond oil, and contain a certain proportion of crude glycerine and glycerides. They protect the skin.

A synthetic detergent created by the Americans during the second world war to lather in sea water. They are soap-free cleansers. They can be liquid or solid.

A synthetic detergent created by the Americans during World War II to foam in sea water. These are soap-free toiletries. They can be liquid or solid.

<span>Active agent extracted from turmeric, active against Candida albicans (the yeast particularly responsible for yeast infection)</span>.

<span>Tetrasodium EDTA is a sequestering agent, meaning it has the capacity to capture and retain metal ions such as Ca2+ (calcium) and Mg2+ (magnesium). It is used in a variety of cosmetic products: deodorants, bath and shower products, shampoos, face and body creams, etc. It helps maintain the stability of the formula and protect it from oxidation (thus preventing fats contained in the formulas from turning rancid). </span>

<span>Chelating agent, reacts and forms complexes with metal ions that could affect the stability and/or appearance of cosmetic products</span>.

<span>Chelating agent, reacts and forms complexes with metal ions that could affect the stability and/or appearance of cosmetic products</span>.

<span>Opacifying agent (reduces transparency), UV filter.</span>

<span>Moisturizer.</span>

<span>pH regulator</span>.

<span>Reduces formation of unpleasant body odor.</span>

<span>Surfactant (solubilizing/emulsifying surfactants promote formation of emulsions and creams; detergent surfactants facilitate removal of impurities)</span>.

INCI name: <span>Potassium Palm Kernelate</span>

Vitamin C is one of the star active ingredients in cosmetics. It is first and foremost a powerful antioxidant capable of protecting the skin from damage caused by free radicals and environmental stress (pollution, etc.). It is also a powerful anti-aging agent because it stimulates collagen synthesis and fibroblast renewal. Finally, vitamin C is active in the manufacture of melanin, the skin’s pigment, and thus helps correct and prevent pigmentation spots.

INCI name: Ascorbyl palmitate

<span>Anti-oxidant (inhibits oxygen-facilitated reactions, thus avoiding oxidation and rancidity)</span>.

INCI name: <span>Tocopheryl Acetate</span>

Solvent

INCI name: Aqua

Witch hazel floral water is soothing and astringent (tightens the pores).

INCI name: Hamamelis virginiana leaf water

<span>Formula thickening agent</span>.

<span>Moisturizer</span>.

<span>Antibacterial agent</span>.

Coloring agent

Coloring agent

Coloring agent

Coloring agent

Coloring agent

Coloring agent

Coloring agent

<span>See Titanium Dioxide</span>